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It is once again time to begin with the Christmas chores, step one is to boil mulled wine. Last year I tried this recipe and it was so good that I’ll make this year too. The recipe comes from the book Östgötamat (2008) (Food from Östergötland county) and called Vallerstadsglögg. It is undated is probably from the late 1800s.
Glögg or Mulled wine, Chaud wine, glühwein etc. is a beverage, based on the wine (usually red) and or hard liquor, to which spices are added and served hot. The word Glögg came into the Swedish language during the 19th century and comes from the Swedish word glödga (= to heat over red heat) and during that century this drink got to be connected to the Christmas traditions in Sweden. The tradition to spice and heat wine is much older and known to have been done already in ancient Greece and Rome. This mulled wine is in other words a relic from Christmases past.
Take two bottles of porter and a bottle of beer (Pils) and boil with 2 pieces of cinnamon, 2 figs, 2 pommerans shell, 12 cloves, 12 whole cardamom seeds, 2 hg scalded almonds, 2 hg raisins, 3 hg sugar for about 15 minutes. I use ½-liter bottles and based on last year’s experiments I’ve chosen to increase the dose of cloves and cardamom (whole cardamom seeds) slightly to 20 each.
Allow the mulled wine to cool off and add a bottle of clear (unspiced) snaps, aquavit (75cl). I have chosen to use Brännvin special.
If you wish, you can heat a few hundred grams of sugar and pour this into the mixture. I would and will do so! At last pour a bottle of home-brewed wine of madeira- or sherrytype. I have no homemade -so I’ll use a bottle of Leacock’s Saint John Madeira.
Let the mulled wine stand well covered for a 24 hours, then remove the spices, raisins and almonds. The raisins and almonds are stored and served into the drink when it’s heated.
This mulled wine does not taste as our modern “traditional mulled wine” but more mature, darker, a bit malty with hints of dark brown sugar (though this is not included) and above all very Christmassy. It is almost as sweet as the modern mulled wine, but lacks the juice/lemonade- structure that is present in most modern mulled wines. This makes it a welcome break from all the Christmas candy and the juiciness of the modern mulled wines.
The recipe was originally recorded by Ruth Wallensteen-Jaeger (1903-1995) and published in Östgötamat by Inga Wallenquist.
If you are not inclined to make one quite as advanced you can try a simpler ditto: Julglögg (Christmas mulled wine) from Regna, that dates to the mid-1800s.
Calculate ½ teaspoon whole cardamom seeds to 2 dl clear (unspiced) aquavit or snaps. Tie the spices in a linen patch and heat up the booze with spice patch in. Remove the spices and add 1 ½ tablespoons syrup. Serve warm. Since this doesn’t require as much preparation, I thought to do this on Christmas Eve.